Soap Making Lye Calculator: NaOH and KOH Amounts, Superfat and Multi-Oil Recipes
The only free US soap calculator with a 15-oil SAP library, NaOH and KOH dual lye modes, multi-oil recipe builder with live percentage totaling, adjustable superfat and water ratio, lye concentration readout, and bar yield estimate, all in one place.
🧪 NaOH + KOH Dual Mode🫒 15-Oil SAP Library📊 Multi-Oil Recipe Builder💧 Water Ratio + Lye Concentration🧼 Bar Yield Estimator
🧪 Lye Type
Check your KOH label. 90% is most common from US soap suppliers
🫒 Oil Recipe (must total 100%)
Oil total: 100%
⚖️ Batch Settings
oz
Weight of oils only, not total batch
oz
For bar yield estimate
📊 Lye Calculation
🧼
A beginner-friendly recipe is pre-loaded (30% coconut, 30% palm, 30% olive, 10% castor). Adjust percentages, add or remove oils, set your batch size and superfat, then click Calculate Lye.
Oil Recipe Breakdown
Cold Process Soap: Why Exact Lye Calculations Keep Your Bars Safe and Skin-Friendly
Soap is made when lye (sodium hydroxide for bar soap, potassium hydroxide for liquid soap) reacts with oils and fats in a process called saponification. Every fat molecule is converted into soap and glycerin. The lye is entirely consumed in the reaction, leaving no free lye in a properly formulated bar of soap. The critical point: the reaction is stoichiometric, meaning the ratio of lye to each oil is fixed by chemistry, not by preference. Different oils have different saponification values (SAP values), which are the grams of NaOH required to fully saponify one gram of that oil. Coconut oil, with its high saturated fatty acid content, needs 0.190 g of NaOH per gram of oil. Olive oil, with its long-chain unsaturated oleic acid content, needs only 0.134 g of NaOH per gram. Use the wrong amount and you either get lye-heavy soap (caustic, will burn skin) or an unsaponified oil-heavy soap (goes rancid quickly, greasy).
Superfat (also called the lye discount) is the intentional reduction of lye to leave a small amount of unreacted oils in the finished bar, providing conditioning and moisturizing properties. At 5 percent superfat (the most common US cold process starting point), you use 5 percent less lye than full saponification would require. The result is a bar with a small margin of free oils that make the soap more skin-friendly and less likely to be drying. This calculator applies your chosen superfat percentage as a lye discount after computing the full saponification amount, following the standard US cold process convention.
NaOH vs KOH: Choosing the Right Lye for Your US Soap Project
Sodium hydroxide (NaOH, caustic soda) produces hard bar soap. Every home and commercial bar soap in the US, from drugstore Ivory to artisan goat milk bars sold at farmers markets, is made with NaOH. It is widely available in the US at hardware stores (Roebic, Red Devil brand), online from soap supply companies (Brambleberry, Bulk Apothecary), and from chemical distributors. Potassium hydroxide (KOH, caustic potash) produces soft, gel-like soap when used at 100 percent concentration, or liquid soap when diluted. US liquid soap makers and shaving soap producers use KOH. The molecular weight difference between NaOH (40 g/mol) and KOH (56.1 g/mol) means KOH requires approximately 40 percent more by weight to saponify the same oil weight. Additionally, commercial KOH sold in the US is typically 90 percent pure (the remaining 10 percent is water), which means you need to divide the theoretical KOH amount by 0.90 to account for the impurity. This calculator handles the purity adjustment automatically when you select KOH and choose your purity percentage.
SAP Values Explained: The Chemistry Behind Every Soap Recipe
Oil / Fat
NaOH SAP Value
KOH SAP Value
Properties
🥥 Coconut Oil
0.190
0.266
Hard bar, big lather, cleansing
🌴 Palm Oil
0.141
0.199
Hard bar, creamy lather, stable
🫒 Olive Oil (Castile)
0.134
0.188
Conditioning, moisturizing, long cure
🌿 Castor Oil
0.128
0.180
Fluffy lather booster, humectant
🐖 Lard / Tallow
0.141
0.198
Hard bar, creamy lather, classic
🌻 Sunflower Oil
0.134
0.188
Skin-nourishing, soft lather
🥑 Avocado Oil
0.133
0.187
Rich, conditioning, luxury bars
🧴 Shea Butter
0.128
0.180
Moisturizing, creamy, stable
🍫 Cocoa Butter
0.137
0.192
Hard bar, adds stearic acid
🌵 Jojoba Oil
0.069
0.097
Non-drying, skin-softening wax
Three US Soap Makers: Real Lye Calculations Walked Through
Portland, OR: Beginner Batch
Classic 4-Oil Recipe
Coconut 30% / 9.6 oz1.65 g NaOH
Palm 30% / 9.6 oz1.22 g NaOH
Olive 30% / 9.6 oz1.16 g NaOH
Castor 10% / 3.2 oz0.37 g NaOH
Total NaOH (5% SF)~119 g / 4.2 oz
Water (2:1 ratio)~238 g / 8.4 oz
Austin, TX: Luxury Maker
Shea and Cocoa Butter Bar
Coconut 25%High lather
Olive 40%Conditioning
Shea Butter 20%Moisturizing
Cocoa Butter 15%Hard bar
Superfat7% for extra conditioning
Lye typeNaOH bar soap
Seattle, WA: Liquid Soap
Coconut-Olive Liquid Soap
Coconut 60%Cleansing + lather
Olive 30%Conditioning
Castor 10%Bubble boost
Lye typeKOH (90% purity)
Superfat0% (diluted later)
Water ratio1.5:1 (concentrated paste)
Expert Tips for Safe Lye Handling in US Soap Making
01
Always Add Lye TO Water, Never Reverse
This is the single most important rule in US soap making. Adding water to lye (in the wrong order) causes an explosive steam reaction that can splatter caustic lye solution. Always pour the measured lye slowly into the measured water while stirring, never the reverse. The solution will heat to 200°F or more, so use a heat-safe pitcher (stainless steel or heavy HDPE plastic). Stir until fully dissolved. Work near a sink with cold running water available for any skin contact.
02
Wear Full PPE Every Single Time
Safety glasses (not just sunglasses; they must have side shields), rubber or nitrile gloves, and long sleeves are non-negotiable every time you handle dry lye or lye solution. Lye causes chemical burns on contact with skin or eyes, and the burns worsen over time if not immediately flushed with large amounts of cold water. Many experienced US soap makers also wear a face shield and an apron. Keep the MSDS for your lye product accessible and know the first aid procedures before you start.
03
Let Both Oils and Lye Solution Cool to 100 to 110°F Before Combining
The standard US cold process technique combines lye solution (cooled from 200°F) and melted oils (cooled from the melt) at approximately 100 to 110°F for each. This temperature matching produces a smooth, controllable trace (emulsification). Combining hot lye solution with hot oils dramatically accelerates trace and can cause your soap to seize before you can pour it. Use a probe or candy thermometer to monitor both temperatures, and allow 30 to 60 minutes of cooling time after making your lye solution before combining.
Water Discount and Lye Concentration: What US Soap Makers Need to Know
The water-to-lye ratio controls how concentrated your lye solution is and how quickly your soap traces and cures. At a standard 2:1 ratio (2 parts water to 1 part lye by weight), most US recipes trace smoothly and the soap releases from molds in 24 to 48 hours. A water discount (1.5:1 or lower) creates a more concentrated lye solution that causes the soap to trace faster (sometimes much faster), firmer up more quickly in the mold, and release sooner, which is useful for swirled designs that need to be cut before getting too hard, or for recipes prone to ash or soda ash formation. The trade-off is less working time. A high-water recipe (2.5:1 or higher) gives extended working time but slower cure and more potential for soda ash on the surface. This calculator shows lye concentration as a percentage (lye ÷ total solution weight × 100). Most US cold process recipes run at 25 to 33 percent lye concentration.
Curing Soap: Why 4 to 6 Weeks Matters in the US Cold Process Community
Fresh-made cold process soap is technically soap but not ready to use. During the cure period (a minimum of 4 weeks for most US recipes, with 6 to 8 weeks preferred), three things happen: remaining water evaporates (making the bar harder and longer-lasting), saponification completes any unreacted oils and lye, and the pH gradually drops from caustic (12 to 14 for fresh soap) to a skin-safe range (around 9 to 10, comparable to many commercial soaps). Test a cured bar with a pH strip or the “zap test” (briefly touching the bar’s surface with the tip of your tongue. A zap or tingle indicates active lye and means it needs more cure time; no zap means it is safe). Store curing soap on open shelving or a wire rack with good air circulation, not touching each other. Keep curing soap away from direct sunlight and in a stable temperature environment. Garages and basements with fluctuating temperatures in US summer and winter can cause sweating or cracking.
Designing Your First US Cold Process Soap Recipe
Formulating a balanced soap recipe from scratch is one of the most satisfying skills a US soap maker develops. Good soap recipes balance four key properties: hardness (the bar holds together and has a long shelf life), cleansing (removes dirt and oils effectively), conditioning (feels moisturizing rather than stripping), and lather quality (bubbly, creamy, or both depending on your target customer). These properties come from the fatty acid composition of your oils, which is why different oils serve different purposes in the recipe.
For hardness, use oils high in saturated fats: coconut oil (most saturated), palm oil, lard, tallow, cocoa butter, and shea butter. For cleansing power, coconut oil is the standout, thanks to its lauric and myristic acid content is responsible for soap’s ability to cut through oils and dirt. For conditioning (skin-softening, moisturizing properties), oils high in oleic acid are the workhorses: olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, sunflower oil, and canola oil. For lather quality, castor oil is the US soap maker’s secret weapon. Even at 5 to 10 percent of the recipe, castor oil dramatically boosts and stabilizes lather, making bars that lather abundantly. A classic beginner US recipe balances all four: 25 to 30 percent coconut (cleansing and hardness), 25 to 30 percent palm (hardness and creamy lather), 30 to 40 percent olive (conditioning), and 5 to 10 percent castor (lather boost). This is exactly the default recipe pre-loaded in this calculator, and it is a reliable, skin-friendly starting point used by US soap makers from beginners to experienced professionals.
Oil Sourcing for US Soap Makers: Domestic vs Imported
US soap makers have excellent access to the oils they need. Coconut oil is widely available in US grocery stores (Trader Joe’s, Costco, and Walmart all carry large containers of refined coconut oil suitable for soap making) at prices competitive with soap supply companies. Lard is available at US grocery stores (Armour brand in the baking section) and is one of the most economical soap-making fats. Olive oil from US grocery stores works perfectly for soap. Extra virgin is not necessary and increases cost without improving the soap; regular or light olive oil at the lowest price per ounce is ideal. Palm oil is the most ethically complicated soap ingredient in the US market: deforestation linked to palm cultivation has made it controversial, and many US soap makers and businesses are moving toward certified sustainable palm (RSPO certified) or replacing it with a blend of lard and coconut oil for similar hardness properties. Specialty oils like shea butter, cocoa butter, avocado, and sweet almond are best purchased from US soap supply companies (Brambleberry, Camden-Grey Essential Oils, Wholesale Supplies Plus) in larger quantities for better pricing. All soap-making oils should be stored in sealed containers away from heat and light to prevent rancidity, as the shelf life of the oil directly affects the shelf life of the soap made from it.
Selling Handmade Soap in the US: Labels, FDA Rules and Farmers Markets
The US handmade soap market is thriving. Etsy, farmers markets, craft fairs, and indie retail boutiques all actively sell artisan soap, but US makers must navigate a regulatory landscape that catches many beginners off guard. The key legal distinction under US law is between soap and cosmetic. If your product is true soap (the cleaning is accomplished through saponified oils, not synthetic surfactants) and you only claim it cleans the body, the FDA does not regulate it as a cosmetic. However, if you claim it moisturizes, softens skin, addresses any condition, or provides any benefit beyond cleaning, it becomes a cosmetic regulated under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. True soap requires a label listing the common name (soap), net weight, and your business name and address. Cosmetically classified soap additionally requires an ingredient list in INCI format (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) in descending order of predominance. Your saponified oils will be listed as Sodium Cocoate (saponified coconut oil), Sodium Olivate (saponified olive oil), and so on. These are the INCI names for saponified oils used on most US artisan soap labels.
State and local regulations add another layer for US soap sellers. Some US states have cottage food laws that specifically address handmade soap; others regulate it differently. Farmers market organizers may require liability insurance, commercial kitchen certification, or specific labeling before accepting soap vendors. Etsy’s seller policies require compliance with applicable laws and accurate ingredient listing. Before selling your first bar in the US, review the FDA’s guidance document on soap (available at FDA.gov), connect with local US soap makers’ guilds (several active guilds exist in California, Texas, New York, and the Pacific Northwest), and consider membership in the Handcrafted Soap and Cosmetic Guild (HSCG), the main US professional organization for small-scale soap and cosmetic makers, which provides legal guidance, recipe reviews, and a community of experienced sellers.
Batch Sizing: From Test Batches to Production Runs
US soap makers typically start with small test batches (16 to 32 oz of oils) to evaluate a new recipe before committing to a full production run. A 32-oz test batch fills a standard silicone loaf mold (available from Brambleberry and Amazon for $15 to $25) and yields 8 to 10 bars at 4 oz each, enough to evaluate cure, cut, lather, and longevity without a major materials investment. Once a recipe is proven, US production batches typically run 5 to 10 pounds of oils per batch for hobbyists, and 25 to 50 pounds per batch for craft fair and market sellers. This calculator handles any batch size. Simply enter the total oil weight in ounces and all lye, water, and yield calculations scale proportionally. For very large batches (50 lbs or more of oils), heat management becomes critical: large batches generate significant heat during saponification and must be monitored carefully to avoid overheating the center of the mold, which can cause cracking, separation, or discoloration. Commercial US soap manufacturers use jacketed tanks with temperature control for this reason. Home US makers working with large batches often divide the soap into multiple smaller molds rather than one very large mold to avoid heat buildup.
Soap Making Questions US Crafters Ask About Lye Most
Multiply the weight of each oil in grams by its SAP value (grams of NaOH per gram of oil), sum the results for all oils in your recipe, then multiply by (1 – superfat percentage / 100) to apply your lye discount. Example: 100g coconut oil × 0.190 = 19g NaOH; 100g olive oil × 0.134 = 13.4g NaOH; total = 32.4g NaOH; at 5% superfat: 32.4 × 0.95 = 30.8g NaOH. Add water at your chosen ratio: at 2:1 water to lye, that is 61.6g water. This calculator performs this calculation for any combination of the 15 most common US soap making oils and outputs the result in grams and ounces.
Lye (sodium hydroxide) is a strong base that causes chemical burns on contact with skin, eyes, or mucous membranes. It is genuinely hazardous and must be treated with respect, but it is safely used by hundreds of thousands of US home soap makers with proper PPE and technique. The risks are manageable: wear safety glasses with side shields, rubber gloves, and long sleeves every time. Add lye to water (never water to lye). Work in a ventilated space (the fumes from dissolving lye in water are irritating). Keep pets and children out of the workspace. Have cold running water accessible. With these precautions, home lye soap making is a well-established, safe craft practiced across the US. The finished, cured soap contains no active lye because the saponification reaction consumes it entirely.
Superfat (also called lye discount) is the percentage by which you reduce the calculated lye amount to leave a small portion of unreacted oils in the finished soap. At 5 percent superfat, you add 5 percent less lye than would be needed to fully saponify all oils. Those unreacted oils remain in the soap and provide conditioning, moisturizing, and skin-softening properties. Common US superfat levels: 0 percent for shaving soaps (where a creamy lather without conditioning oils is preferred), 3 to 5 percent for standard bar soaps, 7 to 10 percent for moisturizing and luxury bars. Very high superfat (above 10 percent) increases risk of the soap going rancid faster since more free oil is present. Most US cold process recipes use 5 percent as a reliable starting point.
SAP (saponification) value is the number of grams of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) needed to completely saponify one gram of a specific oil or fat. SAP values are derived from the fatty acid composition of each oil. Oils high in lauric acid (like coconut) have high SAP values; oils high in long-chain oleic acid (like olive) have lower SAP values. These values are well-established constants in soap making chemistry and are published by the American Oil Chemists’ Society (AOCS) and widely documented in US soap making literature. The values used in this calculator match those published by Brambleberry, CandleScience, and the Soap Queen (Anne-Marie Faiola’s SoapQueen.com, a major US soap educational resource) and are consistent with AOCS standards.
Yes, with an important caveat: you need 100 percent pure sodium hydroxide (NaOH), not a drain cleaner that contains NaOH plus other chemicals like surfactants or aluminum filings. Roebic Crystal Drain Opener (available at Home Depot, Lowe’s) is 100 percent NaOH and is commonly used by US soap makers. Red Devil Lye (when available) is similarly pure. Always check the ingredients list. Sodium hydroxide should be the only active ingredient listed. Drain cleaners that list sodium hydroxide plus other compounds are NOT suitable for soap making. Soap-specific NaOH from US suppliers like Brambleberry, Bitter Creek Candle Supply, or Elements Bath and Body is labeled for soap making and confirmed to be the correct grade, making it the safest choice if you are new to soap making.
Soap that thickens immediately on combining (seizes) or goes through an acceleration of trace that makes it unworkable has several common causes in US cold process soap making. High-coconut-oil recipes (above 50 percent coconut) trace very quickly. Certain fragrance oils, especially those with high vanillin, floral aldehyde, or cinnamon content, cause immediate acceleration. Test new fragrance oils at small scale before using in a full batch. Combining oils and lye solution at too high a temperature (above 120°F) accelerates trace dramatically. Using a stick blender too aggressively in a high-saturated-fat recipe causes rapid emulsification. If your soap seizes, quickly spoon it into the mold. It will still make good soap, just without decorative swirls. For next time: use room-temperature oils, cool your lye solution to 90 to 100°F, stick blend in short pulses, and test fragrance oils separately.
In US cold process recipes, coconut oil typically makes up 20 to 35 percent of the total oil weight for balanced bars. Coconut oil provides hardness (the bar holds together well), high lather, and excellent cleansing ability (it removes oils and dirt effectively). The trade-off is that coconut oil at high percentages can be drying because it cleans so well that it removes the skin’s natural oils. Above 35 percent coconut, many people with sensitive or dry skin find the bar too stripping. However, 100 percent coconut oil soap (with a higher superfat of 15 to 20 percent to compensate for the drying properties) is a popular specialty bar for shampoo bars or laundry bars. Recipes for the US market commonly balance coconut oil with conditioning oils like olive, shea butter, or sunflower to produce a bar that cleans well without being harsh.
A water discount means using less water than a standard 2.5:1 or 2:1 water-to-lye ratio would produce. US soap makers use water discounts (1.5:1 or lower) to make soap that traces faster, unmolds sooner, and is less prone to soda ash (the white powdery coating that forms on the surface of cooling soap when it contacts air moisture). The trade-off is less working time. With a heavy water discount, your soap may trace within a minute or two of combining, leaving little time for swirls or complex designs. Start with 2:1 water-to-lye as a beginner, master working at that level, then experiment with 1.5:1 for faster projects. The lye concentration percentage in this calculator’s results panel helps you track this. Standard ratios produce 25 to 30 percent concentration; heavy discounts reach 40 to 45 percent.
The US cold process soap community standard is a minimum of 4 weeks of cure time at room temperature, with 6 to 8 weeks preferred for harder, longer-lasting bars. During curing, water evaporates (a 4-week cured soy bar loses 15 to 25 percent of its initial weight in water), saponification completes, and pH drops to a skin-safe range. For Castile (100 percent olive oil) soap, a 6-month cure is traditional. The extended cure produces the slippery, long-lasting lather that defines classic Castile soap. For commercial sale in the US, properly cured soap is tested with a pH meter or strips to confirm a pH of 10 or below before offering for sale. Some US state regulations require additional labeling for handmade soap sold as a cosmetic. Check the FDA’s guidance on soap vs cosmetic classification before selling.
The minimum US home soap making equipment list: a digital kitchen scale accurate to 1 gram (the single most important tool, since all soap recipes are by weight), a stainless steel or heavy HDPE pitcher for dissolving lye in water (do not use aluminum, as lye reacts with it), stainless steel or HDPE mixing bowls for oils, a stick blender (immersion blender) for bringing soap to trace, a digital probe thermometer, silicone spatulas and spoons, a soap mold (silicone loaf molds are popular and widely available from US soap suppliers and Amazon), safety glasses with side shields, and nitrile or rubber gloves. Soap molds can be purchased from US suppliers like Brambleberry and Wholesale Supplies Plus, or made from wood lined with freezer paper. Dedicated equipment for soap making is strongly recommended. Never use the same containers and tools for both lye soap making and food preparation.
Hot process (HP) soap uses the same lye calculation as cold process. NaOH and SAP values are identical. The difference is in the cooking method: after combining oils and lye solution at trace, hot process soap is cooked (in a slow cooker, oven, or on the stovetop) until saponification completes, producing soap that is ready to use much sooner than cold process (hot process soap can be used within days of making, though bars benefit from a 1 to 2-week cure to harden). Hot process produces a more rustic-looking bar with a mashed-potato texture that is harder to swirl and decorate. It is popular with US soap makers who want to use their soap quickly and with those who want to add delicate additives (like fresh herbs or some essential oils) after cooking, when the soap has cooled below 185°F. Calculate lye using this calculator exactly as you would for cold process soap, as the saponification chemistry is the same.
Add fragrance oil or essential oil to your combined oils-and-lye soap batter at a light trace (when it just begins to thicken). The standard US addition rate is 0.5 to 1 oz of fragrance or essential oil per pound of oils (3 to 6 percent by oil weight). Some fragrance oils accelerate trace dramatically in cold process, particularly florals, bakery scents (vanilla, cinnamon), and some musks. Always test new fragrance oils in a small batch before using in a full recipe. Essential oils vary widely in performance: lavender, peppermint, and cedarwood are well-behaved and hold their scent reasonably. Citrus EOs fade quickly in the saponification process. Clove and cinnamon EOs accelerate trace severely. Most US soap supply companies like Brambleberry and CandleScience publish cold process soap usage notes for each fragrance oil they sell. Check these before purchasing.
NaOH lye for soap making is available from several US sources. Hardware stores (Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace Hardware) carry Roebic Crystal Drain Opener, which is 100 percent sodium hydroxide and widely used by US soap makers, available for around $10 to $15 for a 2-pound container. Online soap supply companies (Brambleberry in Washington, Essential Depot in Florida, Wholesale Supplies Plus in Ohio) sell soap-grade NaOH in 2-pound to 50-pound quantities labeled specifically for soap making. Amazon carries several brands including Lab Pro Inc. and Essential Depot. For KOH (potassium hydroxide), hardware stores carry it less commonly. Soap suppliers and chemical supply companies are the primary US source. Store lye in its original sealed container in a cool, dry location away from moisture, as lye absorbs water from the air and will cake and degrade if left open.
US soap sales regulations depend on how your product is classified and marketed. True soap, where the primary cleaning agent is the alkali salt of a fatty acid (saponified oils) and you do not make any cosmetic claims (moisturizing, anti-aging, brightening skin), is regulated by the US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) but not the FDA. True soap only requires accurate labeling with the product name, net weight, and maker’s contact information. If you make cosmetic claims (“moisturizes,” “conditions skin”), the product is regulated as a cosmetic by the FDA, requiring adherence to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP), ingredient labeling in INCI format (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient), and other requirements. If you label soap for antibacterial use (“kills germs”), it becomes an over-the-counter drug regulated more strictly. Most US artisan soap makers sell as true soap to avoid the cosmetic regulatory framework. Etsy, farmers markets, and craft fairs are common US sales channels. Check your state’s cottage food laws, which vary significantly in how they regulate handmade soap sales.
Soda ash is a white, powdery or fluffy layer that forms on the surface of cold process soap as it cools and contacts moisture in the air. It is cosmetically undesirable but harmless. It does not affect the soap’s quality, lather, or safety. Soda ash forms when sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) develops at the soap surface. US soap makers use several prevention strategies: cover fresh soap with plastic wrap pressed directly against the surface immediately after pouring to exclude air; spray the poured soap surface with 91 percent isopropyl alcohol to prevent surface oxidation; use a higher-temperature pour (above 115°F) and insulate the mold with towels to allow the soap to go through gel phase (a semi-transparent phase where internal heat fully saponifies the soap and reduces soda ash risk); or use a water discount to speed up the cure and reduce surface moisture exposure time. If soda ash does form, it can be steamed off with a clothing steamer or planed off with a soap planer before cutting bars.
Castile soap is named after the Castile region of Spain, historically one of the world’s major olive oil producers and the origin of traditional olive oil soap. True Castile soap by the traditional US definition is 100 percent olive oil with no other oils. This very old formulation that produces a gentle, long-cured bar known for its slippery lather and exceptional conditioning properties. In modern US soap marketing, “Castile” has been somewhat loosely applied to any predominantly olive oil soap, and liquid Castile soaps like Dr. Bronner’s (which uses a blend of oils) have further expanded the term’s use. Saponification chemistry for Castile soap is straightforward: all oils have the same SAP value (0.134 for olive oil), and the lye calculation is simply oil_weight × 0.134 × (1 – superfat). Traditional Castile bar soap is cured for 6 months to a year to develop its characteristic translucency and lather quality. Patience is the most important ingredient in a true Castile bar.
SAP values in this calculator are based on published industry averages and may differ from the exact saponification value of your specific oil lot due to variation in fatty acid composition, origin, and processing. Always cross-check lye calculations with a second source before making soap, especially for recipes intended for sale or gifting. Lye is a caustic chemical; never handle it without appropriate personal protective equipment. This calculator is an educational tool and does not replace professional soap making training or safety instruction. Bar yield estimates assume no cutting waste and a simplified mold geometry. Lye concentration calculations assume the standard NaOH/KOH molecular weights. KOH purity adjustment is an approximation. Verify your specific KOH supplier’s purity documentation. USCalculators.com has no commercial relationships with any soap supply brand mentioned. All product names are trademarks of their respective owners. The SAP values, superfat guidelines, and water ratio recommendations reflect common US soap making practice and are for planning purposes only.