Brick veneer is a single layer of face brick attached to a wood-frame wall with metal ties — it is cosmetic and weather-resistant cladding, not a structural wall. The math for the brick count is the same as a brick wall (6.75 bricks per square foot for standard modular), but the complete materials list is entirely different. No other brick veneer calculator shows three critical components that the IRC requires: brick ties, weep holes, and base flashing. Brick ties anchor the veneer to the wood framing at a rate of 1 per 2.67 square feet per IRC Section R703.8.4 — for a 20×8-ft wall with typical openings, that is 44 ties you need to order. Weep holes drain any water that gets behind the veneer through the required 1-inch air gap, required every 24 inches along the base course per IRC R703.8.6. Miss either of these and the veneer will eventually trap moisture against the framing and cause rot.
The other step every other calculator skips is the opening deduction. A 20×8 ft wall has 160 square feet of gross area, but two 3×4-ft windows and a 3×7-ft door take up 45 square feet of that. You only need bricks for the remaining 115 square feet. Our calculator subtracts all your windows and doors automatically and shows the gross area, the total deduction, and the net area so you can see exactly what you are ordering and why.
Net area = wall length times wall height minus (number of windows times window width times window height) minus (number of doors times door width times door height). Bricks = net area times 6.75 (standard modular, 3/8-inch mortar) times 1.05 waste. Mortar = bricks divided by 30 (60 lb Type S bags, face shell bedding). Brick ties = net area divided by 2.67 square feet per tie (IRC R703.8.4), rounded up. Weep holes = wall length in inches divided by 24 (one per 24 inches of base course per IRC R703.8.6), rounded up. Base flashing = wall length in linear feet. The chart shows bricks and brick ties by wall height for the current wall length with your opening sizes deducted.
How many bricks do I need for brick veneer?+
Subtract all window and door areas from the gross wall area to get the net veneer area. Multiply net area by 6.75 (standard modular bricks per square foot with 3/8-inch mortar joints) times 1.05 waste. For a 20×8 ft wall with two 3×4-ft windows and one 3×7-ft door: net = 160 minus 45 = 115 sq ft. Bricks = 115 x 6.75 x 1.05 = 816 face bricks. Add mortar: 816 / 30 = 28 bags of 60 lb Type S. Our calculator deducts all openings automatically from the inputs you enter.
What is the difference between brick veneer and a solid brick wall?+
A solid brick wall is structural — the bricks carry the building loads and the wall is typically 8 inches or more thick (double wythe or more). Brick veneer is a single layer of face brick (approximately 3-5/8 inches thick) attached to the outside of a wood or metal frame wall with metal ties. The veneer carries no structural load — it is weather-resistant cladding that gives the exterior appearance of a solid brick wall. Brick veneer requires a 1-inch air gap between the brick and the sheathing, brick ties to anchor the veneer to the framing studs, base flashing to direct water out, and weep holes to drain the air gap. None of these components are used in true solid brick construction. Approximately 90% of new brick construction in the US is brick veneer over wood framing, not solid brick.
How many brick ties do I need per square foot?+
IRC Section R703.8.4 requires a minimum of 1 brick tie per 2.67 square feet of net wall area (openings excluded). This translates to: horizontal spacing at 16-inch stud intervals and vertical spacing at every 24-inch maximum. The formula for your project: net wall area divided by 2.67, rounded up. For a 115-sq-ft net area: 115 / 2.67 = 44 ties. Ties should be galvanized or stainless steel to resist corrosion in the moist environment of the air gap. Common types include corrugated galvanized metal ties (least expensive, adequate for standard applications) and adjustable wire ties that allow the veneer to be set at a flexible distance from the framing (better for controlling the air gap width).
Why do brick veneer walls need weep holes?+
The 1-inch air gap behind brick veneer is required to drain moisture that infiltrates the veneer — rain, condensation, and vapor drive all introduce water into the wall assembly. This water runs down to the base of the air gap where it encounters the base flashing, which directs it outward through the weep holes and away from the building. Without weep holes, water collects in the air gap at the base, has nowhere to go, and eventually saturates the base flashing, the sill plate, and the bottom of the wall framing, causing rot and structural damage that can cost tens of thousands of dollars to repair. IRC Section R703.8.6 requires weep holes at a maximum spacing of 33 inches; most masonry manufacturers specify 24-inch spacing as the standard practice. Our calculator uses 24-inch spacing for conservative compliance.
What flashing goes at the base of brick veneer?+
Base flashing at the bottom of brick veneer is a continuous moisture barrier that redirects water draining through the air gap outward through the weep holes. Common types include: L-shaped sheet metal flashing (aluminum or galvanized steel, bent to cover the sill and extend into the air gap at least 4 inches), self-adhering sheet membrane flashing (like Grace Vycor or similar, applied to the sheathing and lapped under the building wrap), and combination systems with a metal drip edge to direct water away from the foundation. The flashing must extend continuously across the full length of the wall without gaps, must turn up at the back of the air gap at least 1 inch to prevent water from running behind it, and must have a drip edge at the front that directs water away from the foundation wall below. Always tape or lap all joints in the flashing to prevent leakage at seams.
How do I calculate brick veneer for a two-story house?+
Calculate each story separately as individual rectangular wall sections. For each story: enter the wall length and story height (typically 8 to 9 feet for the first story and 8 feet for the second), then deduct the windows and doors for that story. Add the brick counts for both stories together for the total order quantity. Note that a two-story brick veneer application requires a shelf angle (a steel L-shaped angle anchor bolted to the structure at the floor framing level) to support the weight of the upper story brick veneer above each window and door opening and at each floor level. The shelf angle carries the veneer load back to the structure so the lower story veneer does not carry the weight of the upper story. This shelf angle requires a horizontal expansion joint in the mortar at each story transition to allow the brick veneer to expand and contract independently of the structure.
What is the cost of brick veneer per square foot?+
Material-only costs for standard modular face brick run approximately $0.80 to $2.50 per brick (6.75 bricks per sq ft = $5.40 to $16.88 per sq ft for brick only). Add mortar ($12 to $15 per bag, approximately $2.70 to $3.38 per sq ft), brick ties ($0.50 to $1.50 each, approximately $0.19 to $0.56 per sq ft), flashing, and weep inserts. Total material cost runs approximately $8.50 to $21 per square foot. Fully installed brick veneer by a masonry contractor runs $18 to $45 per square foot in most US markets (2026 estimates), with regional variation and labor market conditions being the primary driver of cost. The installation requires both a mason and a laborer, typically producing 50 to 100 square feet of veneer per day per crew.
Can I install brick veneer over existing siding?+
Installing brick veneer over existing siding is generally not recommended and not compliant with IRC requirements. The IRC requires that brick veneer be installed over a weather-resistant barrier (housewrap or building paper) applied directly to the wall sheathing with a 1-inch air gap behind the brick. If there is existing siding on the sheathing, this changes the effective air gap dimension, creates an uneven installation surface, and may void the manufacturer’s flashing warranty. Additionally, the weight of brick veneer (approximately 35 to 45 lbs per square foot) exceeds the structural capacity of many wall assemblies that were not designed to carry masonry loads. The foundation sill plate, wall framing, and foundation itself must be evaluated by a structural engineer before adding brick veneer to an existing structure. Remove the existing siding before installing new brick veneer and have a contractor verify that the existing framing and foundation can support the additional load.
How long does brick veneer last?+
Well-installed brick veneer with proper flashing and drainage can last 75 to 100 years, matching the life of the framing structure behind it. The limiting factors are usually the mortar joints (which typically need repointing every 30 to 50 years as the mortar weathers and erodes) and the base flashing (which has a service life of 20 to 50 years depending on material type). A properly maintained brick veneer with functioning weep holes, intact flashing, and sound mortar joints requires minimal maintenance and will outlast most other exterior cladding materials. The most common cause of premature failure is blocked weep holes or failed base flashing that allows water to accumulate behind the veneer, saturating the wood framing. Annual inspection of the weep holes and base flashing is the most important maintenance task for brick veneer.
What type of brick is used for veneer?+
Standard modular face brick (also called face brick or facing brick) is the most common brick used for veneer applications. Face brick is manufactured to tighter dimensional tolerances than structural common brick and has a higher quality face finish. Face brick comes in three grades: SW (Severe Weathering, for use in freeze-thaw climates or below grade), MW (Moderate Weathering, for above-grade use in mild climates), and NW (No Weathering, for interior use only). For exterior veneer in the continental US, SW grade face brick is the appropriate specification almost everywhere except the warmest parts of the Deep South and the Southwest, where MW brick is acceptable. Never use NW grade brick for exterior veneer. Check the ASTM C216 grade designation on the pallet tag when ordering.
How do I account for corners in a brick veneer calculation?+
For brick veneer on a house with multiple exterior walls, calculate each wall face separately (entering the individual dimensions for each wall section) and add the brick counts together. At outside corners, one wall laps over the adjacent wall, which slightly reduces the brick count on one of the two walls. For modular brick, the corner brick return is only 4 inches (the nominal brick width), so the overlap is very small compared to the overall wall area and is typically covered by the standard 5% waste factor. If you have an inside corner (a re-entrant corner where two walls meet), there is no adjustment needed for the corner itself — the bricks on each wall simply terminate at the inside corner with standard cuts. Calculate each wall section separately for the most accurate result.
What is the weight of brick veneer per square foot?+
Standard brick veneer weighs approximately 35 to 45 pounds per square foot of wall face. This weight breaks down to: brick weight (a standard modular brick weighs approximately 4.5 lbs, with 6.75 bricks per sq ft = 30 lbs per sq ft) plus mortar weight (approximately 5 to 12 lbs per sq ft depending on joint coverage). Total veneer assembly weight including the air gap components and ties is typically estimated at 40 lbs per sq ft for structural calculations. This weight bears on the foundation below the veneer start point — typically the top of the concrete foundation wall or the top of a masonry ledge built into the foundation. For additions or renovations where brick veneer is being added to an existing structure, the foundation and footings must be verified by a structural engineer to ensure they can carry the additional dead load of the veneer.
How do I mortar brick veneer around windows and doors?+
Brick veneer at windows and doors requires a lintel (steel angle or precast concrete beam) to support the veneer above each opening. The standard lintel is a 3x3x1/4-inch steel angle with a minimum bearing of 8 inches at each side of the opening — meaning the steel angle extends at least 8 inches past the edge of the window or door frame on both sides. The lintel is set in mortar on the first course above the opening and must be primed and painted or galvanized to prevent rusting. At the sides of each opening (jambs), the brick cut pattern must maintain the running bond by using half bricks (bats) at every other course to maintain the staggered joint pattern. Allow the window and door units to be installed with full sill flashing before the brick veneer is started — the brick sill at the bottom of each window must be properly flashed to direct any water outward.
Can I do brick veneer as a DIY project?+
Brick veneer installation is considered an intermediate to advanced masonry skill. It is more forgiving than full structural masonry because the structural requirements are simpler (the brick carries only its own weight, not building loads), but the detailing at the base, around openings, and at corners is critical for water management and long-term durability. A motivated homeowner who has done some basic masonry work (like laying patio brick or a garden wall) and is willing to take the time to properly install the flashing and weep hole system can successfully complete a brick veneer project. The most common mistakes are: skipping the base flashing or installing it incorrectly, failing to maintain a consistent 1-inch air gap, installing ties into sheathing rather than studs, and filling the weep holes with mortar. Each of these mistakes is invisible after the veneer is complete but can cause severe long-term damage. If in doubt, hire a masonry contractor for at least the base course and flashing installation to ensure the critical drainage components are correct.
What is the standard air gap behind brick veneer?+
IRC Section R703.8.3 requires a minimum 1-inch air space between the back of the brick veneer and the face of the weather-resistant barrier (housewrap or building paper) on the sheathing. This air gap serves as a drainage plane that directs any water infiltrating the veneer downward to the base flashing and out through the weep holes. The air gap must remain clear of mortar droppings throughout construction — contractors use mortar drop cloths or foam net installed in the gap before laying the veneer to catch falling mortar. The standard practice in cold climates is to use the full 2-inch space available in a typical 2×6 wall assembly to improve drainage reliability, but the code minimum is 1 inch. Never compress the air gap with insulation or fill it with any material that would block the drainage path from top to bottom.
Does brick veneer need expansion joints?+
Yes. Brick veneer must have vertical expansion joints every 20 to 25 feet of continuous wall length to allow the brick to expand and contract with temperature changes without cracking the mortar. Brick expands slightly over its lifetime as it absorbs moisture (an irreversible process called moisture expansion), and it expands and contracts daily with temperature cycles. Without expansion joints, this cumulative movement cracks mortar at the weakest points (usually at corners, openings, or mid-wall). The expansion joint is a continuous vertical joint filled with a flexible backer rod and sealant (typically a polyurethane or modified silicone caulk matched to the brick color) rather than mortar. The joint extends the full height of the veneer. In multi-story applications, a horizontal expansion joint is also required at each floor level where a structural shelf angle supports the veneer above. The BIA recommends expansion joint spacing of no more than 20 feet for most brick types.